27/11/2013

Types of Kimono - Iromuji

After seeing formal types of kimono, we'll now feature maybe the most versatile kind of kimono, that can go from quite formal to informal: the iromuji.

A red one-crested iromuji.

Iromuji (approximately "plain color") is a solid color kimono. It can be actually plain or have discrete damasque-like patterns (in a fabric called rinzu), but no colorful motifs. From a distance, iromuji will always look solid. It's worn by married and unmarried women, and can have any color except for white or black - since plain white or black kimono have other connotation, as we'll see ahead.

Note: In kimono culture, black isn't considered a "color" (iro). That's why irotomesode (color tomesode) and kurotomesode (black tomesode) have slightly different connotations and formality, like we've seen on the Tomesode section of this series.


Althou they can be plain, most iromuji have a soft motif/texture when you look up close. 
This damask-like effect is called rinzu. Photos from Kuwashi Rental and Sarakimono.

The most common tones for iromuji are subdued, giving this kind of kimono a dignified and mature feel (flashy colors are related to youth in kimono aesthetics). Since it's very discrete, iromuji is often worn during the japanese tea ceremony (cha-no-yu), that pursues an aesthetics of simplicity. Iromuji allows the focus to be on the ceremony itself (a colorful furisode, for example, would be a too bright distraction, as well as too formal, in most types of tea ceremony).

Examples of iromuji. The color possibilities are endless! Pink, purple, blue, green, yellow, 
orange, brown, reddish, gray, and so on... Notice how the tones tend to be soft or grayish.
 
 
Subdued tones, thou, are a tendency, not a rule, so there are also pretty vivid 
iromuji out there! =) Above, two examples: deep red and deep purple iromuji. 
Photos from muhvi on Immortal Geisha and Akiko Hiramatsu on kimonosnack.

Not only for tea ceremonies, iromuji is also adequate to wear from wedding receptions to graduation ceremonies (not if you're the one graduating!), formal and informal parties, and general social events like gatherings, dinners, exhibitions or concerts. This is because it can be matched with several kinds of obi to achieve various levels of formality: the formal fukuro obi, versatile nagoya obi or even the casual hanhaba obi.

Iromuji also can be found with a variate number of family crests (kamon), another important element in kimono formality. A kimono with no crests is very informal, while a kimono with 5 crests shows the higher level of formality. Iromuji can go from no crests up to one, three or full five crests, but usually have one crest (ideal for tea ceremony) or quite formal 3 crests*.


 
These coordinations of uncrested iromuji and obi with no brocade look "casual-dressy"
to me... maybe a good style for a go-out day? From Nadeshiko Peace.

Combined with brocade obi, iromuji become more formal, 
and can be worn in several kinds of events. From Nissen.

The obi musubi (knot) most commonly worn with iromuji is the classic otaiko (or just taiko) musubi. But, being this such a versatile garment, other musubi can be worn. Iromuji photos are quite hard to find compared to other kinds of kimono (people tend to like kimono with motifs more, I think...), and obi musubi isn't my forte - so I'm making a few suppositions in this point. Apart from taiko (which I'm certain it's adequate for iromuji) I think I've also spotted it being worn with tsunodashi musubi** (that usually looks like a "floppy" taiko with inside "wings"), bunko musubi (shaped as a big bow on the upper part of the obi) and others. These are more informal choices, thou, not fit for tea ceremony, for example.

Left: the classic taiko musubi, a formal choice, but that can also be worn in semi-formal situations - with a non-brocade obi, like in the "casual-dressy" examples of iromuji above. From Bushoan. Right: a variation of tsunodashi musubi (not floppy, but has "wings"). Tsunodashi is less formal than taiko, but with brocade obi it may have a festive and bit more formal feel, I guess? From muhvi on Immortal Geisha.


So, this is the basic about Iromuji. On the next part of this "Types of Kimono" series, we're going more and more informal with Edo-komon and Komon. See you! ^^


*On another small note: There are no kimono with 2 or 4 crests, if you're wondering. 
They're always put in the same position:

1 crest: under the eri (collar) at the back.
3 crests: same of one crest, plus the both front sides of the eri.
5 crests: same as three crests, plus both sleeves (over the elbow, more to the back)

** Tsunodashi musubi is also known as Ginza musubi. I spent quite a while trying to figure out the difference between them (they looked the same to me!) until I found out it's indeed the same knot. ^^;

 

20/11/2013

Wafuku Question: Kamishimo

I was asked by spring-sky on DeviantArt about this kind of japanese period outfit:


This outfit is called Kamishimo. It's a combination of hakama pants and kataginu, a sleevless jacket, both made in the same fabric, worn over the kimono (ancient kimono was called kosode, or "small sleeves"). Kamishimo was worn daily by samurai men during the Muromachi, Sengoku and Momoyama periods (aprox. from 1337 to 1603). It could have various colors and patterns, and sometimes had the owner's kamon (family crest) on both sides of the chest/shoulders, and in the middle back of the kataginu.

Samurai from Sengoku period wearing kamishimo
(from the japanese drama Gou: Himetachi no Sengoku).

Notice the kamon on the shoulders and middle back of the 
kataginu jacket (from the Kyoto Costume Museum).

Another example (from the movie Kagemusha). 

These photo examples I found of kamishimo are quide subdued color-wise, but in those times, it was also common for men to wear gaudier colors and patterns, specially among upper classes. The two next photos don't show kamishimo, but the formal outfit for samurai in the Muromachi-Momoyama period, named hitatare. But it serves as an approximated example of the "flashy" styles that could be worn back then (althou, since kamishimo was more casual, it probably didn't go that far, gaudy-wise).

From the movie The Kiyosu Conference. Two
subdued and two "flashy" hitatare formal outfits.

 
Another gaudy hitatare, from the movie Kagemusha.
Sengoku samurai didn't fear bright orange tones! XD

 In Edo period (1603-1868), the subdued colors like grayish blue, gray and brown became "the rule" for male outfits, as well as more discrete patterns. Kamishimo became no longer daily, but formal outfit for samurai. The kataginu front pannels became more narrow, and the shoulders of the garment turned into wide, firm "wings".

Samurai in ceremonial kamishimo from Edo period. Notice the wide shoulders and long hakama (naga-bakama). In less formal occasions, normal hakama, that allowed one to walk easily, was worn (from the Kyoto Costume Museum).

Photography of samurai, from Edo period (from National Geographic
wearing a formal kamishimo, with regular hakama.

Edo kamishimo (from the movie The Sword of Desperation).

So, this is the basics about kamishimo. The info I referenced is from The Sengoku Daimyo, an amazing site with tons of historical info on Japan, so if you want to see more on the subject, I highly recommend it!

I hope this was useful, spring-sky! ^^


19/11/2013

Lovely Iromuji

Small post to feature of this beautiful iromuji <3


I love how the soft butter yellow harmonically fits the discrete deep blue accessories... Plus, the obi motif (nicely following the yellow/blue colors in more subdued tones) is paper cranes! So cute and elegant, and auspicious, too! ^^

...Can't find the original source of the picture, sorry...

This is a tiny "preview" of the next kimono tutorial subject, Informal Kimono, which will start talking about this kimono type: the semi-formal iromuji.


16/11/2013

Macarons!

...They're pastel, they're colorful, they're sweet, they're delicious, 
they're cute, they're parisian... How much better could macarons get?





See these and many, many other lovely macaron photos 
on this Pinterest pannel: Macarons <3